São Paulo Exhibition

We landed at the Condiminio Cultural a couple of weeks ago in a cloud of road dust, gushing streams of diesel from a cracked fuel pipe. High up in the hills of Pomperia, this has been the perfect place with the most perfect people to help us fix the bus and escort us to various… Read more »

Stray Dogs Of Sucre

It’s not a long way between Potosi and Sucre – a few hours’ drive and a drop of 1000m from the barren hills around one of the world’s highest cities down through the valleys to the eternal-spring climate and greener region of Sucre, Bolivia’s traditional capital and beautiful, most perfect city. The ancient connection between… Read more »

Vegetarian Restaurants In La Paz, Bolivia

Being a vegetarian in South American countries can be a testing experience and, in general, Bolivia is no exception to that rule. In their capital city, Nuestra Señora de la Paz, however, you will find plenty of healthy, good food that has been cooked deliberately without meat or fish – pretty much an oasis of… Read more »

A Short Ayahuasca Detour On A Long Journey

Ayahuasca is a brew of various plants traditionally found in the Amazon region where it is used by people there for ritual, cleansing and spiritual practice. Generally one of the ingredients is a plant that contains DMT, a hallucinogenic drug that is illegal all over the world although in Peru the preparation and consumption of… Read more »

Drive From Lima To Cuzco

Two Hours by Plane, A Day by Bus – Nearly a Week with our L.O.C. After so many months in Lima, we were really looking forward to the drive to Cuzco. Time to let the cobwebs blow free and get some movement on again. For this run we had a couple of Londoners on board… Read more »

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    Ust’-Ordynskiy

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    Leaving Irkutsk and driving towards Lake Baikal, the landscape has changed dramatically, becoming much less forested and more open grassland or steppes – a vision of Mongolia and reminding me of central Turkey. We pull off the road via a Shamanist shrine cum picnic spot and park up on the edge of a vast meadow…. Read more »

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    Registro

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    Krasnoyarsk

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    It’s becoming something like the Groundhog Day driving this section of Russia. The hundreds of kilometres between cities always seem to take twice as long as thought – not so much because of the road conditions; certainly not because of too much traffic and despite spending practically every waking minute of the day driving. What… Read more »

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    Kemerovo

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    We’re pretty much in the dead centre of Russia, the heart of Siberia. The middle of nowhere. Miles upon miles of road, empty landscapes and enormous skies bounded by the furthest horizon seen away from an ocean. And then we happen upon a city – a large city by the looks of it; an industrial,… Read more »

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    Novosibirsk

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    The fifth largest city in Russia – the designated capital of Siberia – we’d had big hopes for this city but the weather turns bad as we arrive and doesn’t lift until we’re back on the road heading east. In the grey and gloom, Radka likens it to Ostrava in Czech Republic, 4000km ago. I… Read more »

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    Ishim

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    Here we are on the detour round Kazakhstan, a lovely section of road that we’d been concerned about before we left Europe. In Soviet times, when it was all one country, the main road continued in a straight line from Chelyabinsk to Omsk and most maps still show this – the Trans-Siberian Highway clips Kazakhstan…. Read more »

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    Urals

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    We’re out of the Ural Mountains which were neither almost impassable nor full of bandits – both things we’d been told by daft truckers back west. Now we’re trying to decide if that means we are now in Asia, and thus Siberia, since, traditionally, Europe stops at the Urals. Overnight we’d stopped near the road… Read more »

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    Kazan

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    Our first break in a week of driving. We wanted to stop in a city with more of an ‘Asian’ feel and Kazan came up with busy markets and glistening mosques – Tartarstan being the northern limits of Islamic culture. We managed to drive all the way into the centre and park up in the… Read more »

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    Rzhev

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    Our first of many village shops. Evening is coming and Moscow is only a couple of hours away but we plan to ignore the great metropolis on our mad rush eastwards – the visa simply does not afford us time to visit many cities on this whole 12000 km journey and, hey, we can see… Read more »

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    Latvian-Russian Border

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    Here we are at the edge of the European Union – we are feeling like we’re at the edge of our destiny. A bt of a dramatic sentiment, maybe, but one that comes after so much planning and preparation, hard work and dreaming. Once we cross this border there’ll be no turning back and we’re… Read more »