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Mexico City Rooftop view with water tank

Place and time: Enforced three week stay in Mexico City waiting for a new passport to be sorted out.

Cash: Not much at all – our emergency budget allows us 2 dollars each and even that means we arrive in South America pretty skint and dependent on a plan to somehow power the truck and move it using just the solar panel.

Mission: To use up that time wisely without spending any money.

It behooves the contestant to do some research before arriving – first internet port of call is couchsurfing.org, facebook.com or whatever your favorite social website tool. A good webizen advised us of a cool place to park right in the middle of town:

Parque Las Americas, Navarte, DF, mexico

Parque Las Americas, four-star curbside, free.

  • Central location; 40 mins walk east of Downtown and 50 mins walk south of Centro Historico. 5 minutes west and north of the standard complexity of DF Urbana.
  • Park up with other crusty looking vehicles, some of which are three times your size, some of which are also lived in.
  • Water from various mysterious taps around the neighborhood (remember to take that mole wrench).
  • Electricity can be used temporarily at the back of the Urban Vigilantes’ Hut.
  • Free Wi-Fi from a couple of unidentified sources (strongest standing on the park bench nearest the south-east corner).
  • Full security from Vigilantes, passing Police cars (one every 10 mins, 6am to 11.30pm) and the numerous public-service ambulances, on-call telephone engineers and roadside recovery vehicles parked up around you taking a break.
  • Fruit and veg market, Navarte, DF, MexicoMeet the people of Navarte, the characters, the immense parts, the bit parts and the lost souls on their way around the Mexican Play of Life – dog walkers, joggers, alcoholics, vagrants, con artists and many other kinds of ambulantes vendredores.
  • Once a week, you can wake up to the sights and sounds of a traditional fruit and veg market – remember to move the truck the night before…

That’s the accommodation sorted, then.

Market Eatery, Mexico City

For eating, there are a couple of big supermarkets around and a few smaller markets with the usual bargain eateries located somewhere within their cores. To be avoided are the little coffee-shops/bars that dot the area and charge multiple dollars for basically snacks. There are also, of course, the ubiquitous taco stands.

Mexico City Street Snacks

Activities during the day in Mexico City include walking around getting a feel for the place, catching up on some European football at the competitively priced bars  around the Zona Rosa, seeing the sights with all the other tourists around the Zocalo or browsing the various commercial zones – near us was a Car Parts Area and a Printing Area (where you can spend a couple of days designing your own t-shirt, base-ball cap and cooking apron). Lovely, what else? Well, of course, the museums, galleries and stuff are free on Sunday when there’s also a massive flea market between Centro Medico and Lazaras Cardenas that’s good for a laugh. Of course, the metro is really cheap – like 15p a ride – it’s entirely possible to spend a few weeks getting out at strange metro stations and having a look around. But be warned: Mexico City isn’t that big.

Printing Shop, Mexico City

Metro Station, Mexico City

Vaga getting checked out by Mexico City mutt.

DF night life is slightly trickier. There doesn’t seem to be much in the way of proper old -skool parties. You might get lucky and get the invite to a kind of self-organized event where your ten quid cover charge buys load of food, drink and the opportunity to meet drug dealers but these aren’t the massive entities we’re kind of used to in our own capital city. Up until midnight you can hang around for free in the Plaza Garibaldi which is apparently the only place in town where you can drink openly in public. And there are lots of bars, sure, but they seem, like, undistinguished – the more interesting ones had cover charges of 100 pesos – I ask you: five quid to get into a Rasta Bar? Enough to buy weed for a fortnight… And in fact the absurd economics of going out might put you off the whole experience. We tried a few ‘squats’ too but we had no answers banging on the door and no answers over on facebook either – I had the feeling we were just between events, though. The most entertaining experiences will be had, of course, in the kitchens, bedrooms and dining rooms of the locals you get to meet. They are a crazy bunch, it has to be said.

Mexico City flea market

Three weeks later, Portuguese Passport in hand but 100 bucks lighter – we’re off to the beach…

 

National Museum of Anthropology

When you make an arch you use framework to keep all the bricks in place until you install the keystone – the piece in the center that keep it all together – then you smash away the framework and, as if by magic, all you see is the self-supporting arch. The metaphor is used to illustrate theories on the beginning of life: there was some kind of system or framework (for example crystal substances)  that helped evolve DNA replication but disappeared as soon as  the beautiful arch of Gaian life spread around the world. Anyway, what I am trying to say is that renovating structures from the antiquities, repairing Stonehenge or redecorating Teotihuacan would be like reconstructing some of that framework to see how humanity arrived here today.

(The Ark is also the fabled ship spoken of by cultures all over the world. The ship that carried humanity safe during an apocalyptic moment of destruction.But that’s another story).

Maya Sculpture

For the moment, we’re at the Mexican National Museum of Anthropology.

Mayan wall relief

Hmm. Standard kind of layout starting with models of naked little men trying to kill a mammoth and ending up at the magnificent sculptures of the Aztecs. Most stunning are the replicas of  pieces of Mayan pyramids that gave us a foretaste, hopefully, of things to come as we’ll soon be in the Mayan heartlands, in South Mexico, Yucatan and Guatemala.

Teotihuacan Sculpture Replica

But the Campaign to Renovate Antiquities (CRA) thing comes out into conscious thought when viewing replicas of what the Teotihuacan pyramids would have looked like. You know, the impressive set of stones that we saw last week – imagine if they had been renovated to look like the magnificent replica that they had in the museum, towering red temples decorated with hundreds of alien gods and creatures…

The arguments against doing so are kind of obvious – we should touch as little way as possible the original stones. And there is a danger that if you repair Stonehenge and reclad Teotihuacan, then hordes of tourists will come here expecting people dressed up and re-enactment, hot-dog bars, places to sit down and it’s all fucking Disney-Land over again. Build your Disney-Land if you want but leave untouched the original stones, man.

The arguments for such renovation are less overt, however. There is the metaphor of the arch-building at the top of this post for example. Here is another illustration about that other structure lost from time, Stonehenge, that is crying out for renovation (indeed it has already been renovated a few times but possibly never finished); there is the latest spot of research (possibly wacky, I haven’t checked, but this is only an example anyway) that Stonehenge’s stones were arranged on a pattern resembling certain aural characteristics (i.e. the way sound waves reinforce or cancel each other out) – very basically, if a piper was blowing away in the center then, for the listener, the volume of the sound would increase and decrease in a circular pattern – strikingly similar (apparently) to where the stones are (or were or would be) standing. The argument for renovation would point to this theory and say; there, we would never know the reality of that proposition until we reconstruct the Henge how it was.

The same applies to the wonderful possibilities of seeing the Teotihuacan complex in something like its original splendor (what we know of it) – archeologists spend time wondering about the significance of the structures – there was no language discovered to even name anything correctly, even less to understand the inhabitants motives and ideas. An enormous clue, though, would be provided by renovating, however: Untold information could be gleaned from completing the hidden stories that they built – maybe astronomical significance, maybe shadows creep their way across the terraces, maybe the gloriously fearsome structure at sunset itself would inspire the appropriate responses in the visitor…

These are mysterious, old things – most of them built, if not by unknown civilizations, then by civilizations acting for unknown reasons – if we should ever have any chance to understand them and reconnect with their thinking, (thereby understanding our own evolution and better-guessing the future), then we should mimic their physical efforts and reconstruct.

 

Anyway, big up to the national Museum of Anthropology for at least doing a couple of replicas and generally educating the people. As you may or may not know all Museums in Mexico City are free on Sunday. They are also very busy on Sundays. This all proved to be the case the week before at the National Art Museum but if you’re sufficiently non-Mexican looking then you’ll be asked to pay the normal price of two quid unless you have proof that you’re a resident. Given that tourists, as much as anyone, should pay something in tax toward the common good, there must be nicer ways of doing it then basing the payment on skin-color and Spanish language control.

 

Anthrpology display

Prehistoric indiginous peoples of Mexico display

Outside the museum is an event in itself – loads of people and families; fast-food and fruit stalls; Replica Aztec Drumming, Dancing and Shamanistic New Age Blessing Ritual; non-replica Hari Krishnas doing their thing and feeding hundreds for free close by in the park – and the mighty Velodores who do a replica of an ancient ritual that is pretty impressive and even looks authentic if you blur your vision a little to obscure the fact they look a bit like Morris-dancers up to some mischief but rapidly re-approaching sobriety. I dunno, they could try and look a bit less bored about doing it a hundred times a day – maybe let some other people have a go (for a cut in the enormous takings they take from the spectacle-hungry crowd). And, of course, one other activity to be undertaken outside of the Museum; getting interviewed by some kid who has to do some foreigners for their English class. Beware! They got Dunia both times we were in the area and we saw many a group of tourists being hassled by posh kids accompanied by their parents (floating around, prompting the shy ones and video recording the thing for evidence in future litigation with the school when their brat completely fails or something).

Shaman blessing ritual, DF, Mexico

Hari Krishna ceremony, DF, Mexico

The thought does come to mind of starting up the old child-sacrifice thing at any resurrected ancient temple…

Interview by school children on assignment, DF, Mexico

Jan 232012
 

Blue agave harvest

With the sun setting on our first day’s drive inland towards Guadalajara, we arrived in Tequila. Parked up for the night outside one of the many breweries and strolled into town to sample the atmosphere, the tacos and the alcohol. In the end we decided against purchasing anything more than a few postcards – most of the liquor looked like it had come from the nearest cash-and-carry wholesalers to be honest. On the way out of town in the morning, we stopped to shoot some video, and otherwise annoy, a team of workers hacking their way through a field of blue agave, piling the heavy cores high into trucks. We’d seen loads of these trucks around and while the chemistry of distillation and the well-advertised brewery tours held little attraction, the sight of these weird-looking, alien egg things certainly intrigued us. I remember reading somewhere that there was a shortage of mature, ten year old, blue agave plants leading to a possible world shortage of tequila and, as it turned out, talking to the plantation owner, they were now being brought to the bottle after six years. Does this mean inferior tequila is being produced these days? He wouldn’t say…

Jan 212012
 

San Blas, Playa de Bottega Sunset

We were pointed this way weeks ago and we will forever be grateful for that – San Blas is the perfect stop on a round-the-world journey. Especially after many weeks of driving with not more than a few days stopped anywhere since leaving North California – this was the Tropical Paradise we had been waiting for…

But beautiful beaches aside, it was the people we met and spent time with that made this a wicked two weeks off the road: Special mention goes to Alex and Katie, a UK couple cycling around North America, with whom it was a pleasure to hang out with – on the beach drinking tequilla, the boat trip around the crocodile infested mangrove swamps or the early morning whale watching.

Dec 152011
 

Los Angeles PanoramaKind of just happened this way – we got into town early and the first thing to do coming in from the north is stop at the Griffith Observatory. See the Hollywood sign behind and this immense city laid out in front and below.

From there to the coast is a whole bunch of interesting LA districts. Starting with West Hollywood (where we bumped into the only person we knew who would be in town that day) and ending up at Venice Beach.

As night fell, we rode out onto the road to Las Vegas, the city freeways taking us round LA Downtown and through suburbia in an eight-lane artery.

 

I haven’t communed with the Rainbow People since the early nineties moments before the digital era. Back then, we were a little more interested in acid techno, fascinated by day-glo colours and we noted that the colours of the rainbow failed to include ultra-violet. At least not without a techno pair of sunglasses but this Mediterranean branch of the Rainbow wouldn’t even allow cameras at their little gatherings. Let’s see how things are at the Real Rainbow, here in the Pacific North West, home to the hippies of America, where the whole peace and love thing started out, this green, open and inviting country, let’s see how the internet has changed things, now every phone’s got a camera and everyone’s got a phone… Continue reading »

 

Where does ‘north’ begin and what is it like? Perhaps the answers lie along the Dempster Highway. This is the only road in Canada that takes you across the Arctic Circle and into the land of midnight sun, where north is a way of life, not just an arrow on a map. It’s leading us into a unique landscape, passing through land that until 190 million years ago was coastline of ancestral North America. It’s taking us through the lands of the Han and Inuvialiut peoples. But it’s also taking us to see tundra – something we could not reach in Siberia, as the Siberia’s only road lies along its bottom.  Six days, three thousand kilometers, never ending forest, twenty black bears, one bald eagle, one grizzly, few coyotes and caribous, we are ready for our last few miles up to the Arctic Circle.

May 172011
 

One year on the road (at least) and one more to go (at least)… So, with pleasure, I’d like to introduce you all to the Arsenal Squat of London, still going strong along with the CheezFactory Squat that was (is, will be…) our home for so long.

Remember that, in this age of plenty, many people do not live comfortable lives and, as the planet runs dry, the only way we can remedy the situation is to work, live and love together – Squatting will Save the Earth!

http://youtu.be/D0MhU2f6yiM

 

Driving through Siberia, we often wondered how animals survive through the winter (see here). For us, at the time, it was a kind of happy question because it was summer time and we didn’t have to find out the answer the hard way or anything. Continue reading »

 

It’s the 7th of January and the crew is still split up, Andy and Vaga are waiting in Seoul for their flight to Vancouver while the rest of us are temporarily residing on a farm in Sicamous, British Columbia. Our vehicles are somewhere in the middle of  the Pacific making their way over to Vancouver…yes, for the three of us here, it’s farm life with all its indoor living luxuries (and many more then you would expect!)  Except that after crossing the whole of the Russian Trans-Siberian Highway, I find myself one more time on one of the world’s longest highways – the Trans-Canada Highway. Going just 10 miles down the 8000km long road to get some hay for the horses, I am thinking, that after minuscule Korea, we finally have again got a whole continent for us to cross…Looking at this highway, with the Canadian Pacific Railway attached to it – just like in Russia, alongside the 50th latitude – just like in Russia…after 12 days without the truck I want to hit the road again…

Oct 072010
 

The biggest limestone cave in Asia. I don’t know whether that makes it the biggest cave of any kind or whether you can get bigger granite ones or whatever but it was a pretty impressive hole in the side of a mountain nevertheless.

There didn’t seem to be much in the way of stalactities or stalagmites but the caverns were massive and the formations were beautifully weird like some alien spaceship or an inside out Cappodocia. And the English language should surely come up with a special word to describe that feeling you get when wobbling around on a rope-bridge over a chasm that is too dark and deep to measure.

Oct 012010
 

Our first taste of South Korea – Russia was, let’s face it, pretty much European all the way to the Eastern Sea so after a short ferry ride we seem to have made it to the other side of the world.

After a few days acclimatising (and not going more than 3km from where the ferry dropped us off) we were ready to venture southwards but we couldn’t miss the Sokcho Cultural Festival. And despite the free food, ball room dancing exhibitions, cuttlefish-gutting competition, stilt walking and the breast cancer awareness tent it seems Vaga was one of the star attractions as the people of Sokcho, young and old, came to touch her, stroke her back and whisper sweet somethings into her ears.

I’m beginning to wonder if Vaga resembles some cartoon character that’s on TV at the moment because, unfortunately for her (she dislikes this kind of child-like fuss), the attention seems to be a trend as we move into the Korean hinterlands – with everyone waving, whistling or blowing kisses at her as we pass by. And to think I was once intending to stencil “Apple iDog” on her back, attach the logo and put some LEDs on her collar in an effort to render her electronic and thus inedible because I was worried that some East Asians might think she was food…

Jul 292010
 

The fifth largest city in Russia – the designated capital of Siberia – we’d had big hopes for this city but the weather turns bad as we arrive and doesn’t lift until we’re back on the road heading east. In the grey and gloom, Radka likens it to Ostrava in Czech Republic, 4000km ago.

I get stopped by the traffic cops for the first time and another illusion we had about Russia evaporates: the police aren’t after bribes and don’t see us as foreign cash machines. The best way to deal with them is to smile alot, say how excellent Russia is and then brandish an English-Russian dictionary for them to use to communicate the penalty that must be paid. They will instantly shy away from this book, with its tiny printing and many pages, and, after you have translated the words for ‘sorry’, ‘confused’, ‘honest mistake guvnor’, the cops will pretend that some more important call has come through and send you on your way.

Jul 142010
 

Our first break in a week of driving. We wanted to stop in a city with more of an ‘Asian’ feel and Kazan came up with busy markets and glistening mosques – Tartarstan being the northern limits of Islamic culture.

We managed to drive all the way into the centre and park up in the shadow of its Kremlin that overlooks the Volga River – and here we found a German truck whose residents came over to say hello. We were wondering if they would join our convoy to the other side of the world but, no; this was the eastern-most point of their summer travels and they have to return home. It was strange to think that Kazan was only our first stop and we’d rushed past everything they were telling us about in European Russia.

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