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Mexico City Rooftop view with water tank

Place and time: Enforced three week stay in Mexico City waiting for a new passport to be sorted out.

Cash: Not much at all – our emergency budget allows us 2 dollars each and even that means we arrive in South America pretty skint and dependent on a plan to somehow power the truck and move it using just the solar panel.

Mission: To use up that time wisely without spending any money.

It behooves the contestant to do some research before arriving – first internet port of call is couchsurfing.org, facebook.com or whatever your favorite social website tool. A good webizen advised us of a cool place to park right in the middle of town:

Parque Las Americas, Navarte, DF, mexico

Parque Las Americas, four-star curbside, free.

  • Central location; 40 mins walk east of Downtown and 50 mins walk south of Centro Historico. 5 minutes west and north of the standard complexity of DF Urbana.
  • Park up with other crusty looking vehicles, some of which are three times your size, some of which are also lived in.
  • Water from various mysterious taps around the neighborhood (remember to take that mole wrench).
  • Electricity can be used temporarily at the back of the Urban Vigilantes’ Hut.
  • Free Wi-Fi from a couple of unidentified sources (strongest standing on the park bench nearest the south-east corner).
  • Full security from Vigilantes, passing Police cars (one every 10 mins, 6am to 11.30pm) and the numerous public-service ambulances, on-call telephone engineers and roadside recovery vehicles parked up around you taking a break.
  • Fruit and veg market, Navarte, DF, MexicoMeet the people of Navarte, the characters, the immense parts, the bit parts and the lost souls on their way around the Mexican Play of Life – dog walkers, joggers, alcoholics, vagrants, con artists and many other kinds of ambulantes vendredores.
  • Once a week, you can wake up to the sights and sounds of a traditional fruit and veg market – remember to move the truck the night before…

That’s the accommodation sorted, then.

Market Eatery, Mexico City

For eating, there are a couple of big supermarkets around and a few smaller markets with the usual bargain eateries located somewhere within their cores. To be avoided are the little coffee-shops/bars that dot the area and charge multiple dollars for basically snacks. There are also, of course, the ubiquitous taco stands.

Mexico City Street Snacks

Activities during the day in Mexico City include walking around getting a feel for the place, catching up on some European football at the competitively priced bars  around the Zona Rosa, seeing the sights with all the other tourists around the Zocalo or browsing the various commercial zones – near us was a Car Parts Area and a Printing Area (where you can spend a couple of days designing your own t-shirt, base-ball cap and cooking apron). Lovely, what else? Well, of course, the museums, galleries and stuff are free on Sunday when there’s also a massive flea market between Centro Medico and Lazaras Cardenas that’s good for a laugh. Of course, the metro is really cheap – like 15p a ride – it’s entirely possible to spend a few weeks getting out at strange metro stations and having a look around. But be warned: Mexico City isn’t that big.

Printing Shop, Mexico City

Metro Station, Mexico City

Vaga getting checked out by Mexico City mutt.

DF night life is slightly trickier. There doesn’t seem to be much in the way of proper old -skool parties. You might get lucky and get the invite to a kind of self-organized event where your ten quid cover charge buys load of food, drink and the opportunity to meet drug dealers but these aren’t the massive entities we’re kind of used to in our own capital city. Up until midnight you can hang around for free in the Plaza Garibaldi which is apparently the only place in town where you can drink openly in public. And there are lots of bars, sure, but they seem, like, undistinguished – the more interesting ones had cover charges of 100 pesos – I ask you: five quid to get into a Rasta Bar? Enough to buy weed for a fortnight… And in fact the absurd economics of going out might put you off the whole experience. We tried a few ‘squats’ too but we had no answers banging on the door and no answers over on facebook either – I had the feeling we were just between events, though. The most entertaining experiences will be had, of course, in the kitchens, bedrooms and dining rooms of the locals you get to meet. They are a crazy bunch, it has to be said.

Mexico City flea market

Three weeks later, Portuguese Passport in hand but 100 bucks lighter – we’re off to the beach…

Jan 122012
 

Jigsaw at Las Cocos RV Park
Vaga San Blas
RV Park Spring CleanThis is the first RV park that we have ever stayed in so far on this journey. Not the first time that we’ve paid money – that has happened to thingy’s mother for a place in her front garden in Irkutsk and again in Seoul at the World Cup Stadium car park which was pure tarmac heaven but the toilet did have heated seats that squirt water up your bum.

So we’re a little green with the trailer park etiquette – do you leave the lights on in the toilets at night? – Is it OK to run power tools on the hook-up? Is it OK to empty the contents of the van out onto the pristine grass and cause a right old rag and bone mess by day that is only superficially tidied up as the sun goes down but manages to get away with it cos, well, Los Cocos RV Park is a well cool and chilled out place.

I’d like to state here that I think it’s OK to arrive in a tropical paradise and then spend the next five days building cupboards, painting rubberized coatings on the undercarriage, fixing fans, etc. My essential point is that I’d rather do them here, with pleasant weather, dog walks on the beach and cheap tacos everywhere, than, say, rainy old Czech Republic or housed in a gloomy warehouse under imminent eviction from the London Olympics Force. Some people must think it’s sad but, possibly, their only experience of tropical paradise is the expensive ten days book-ended by Heathrow Airport that demands no work and all play. But this trip is, of course, fundamentally different – we are looking at the next six months at least in the Tropics and we feel we need working fans, rubberized undercarriages and cupboards in order to make the most of that time.

Next week I’m going to justify why I like to spend my days staring in a computer screen even though I’m at a surfer’s beach internet caff sipping an ice coffee or was it fresh coconut and rum?

Jun 282011
 

So we decided to pass by the Rainbow Gathering which is due to take place close to Mount St. Helen’s – which is pretty much exactly where we wanted to go anyway. This means that we are on Craigslist Rideshare in the hope of picking up a bit of the traffic which will surely head south from Seattle and its urban spread. And this means having to hang around shopping mall car parks all day trying to connect on the Wi-Fi. Great. Continue reading »

Oct 102010
 

One of the more spectacular temple complexes in South Korea awaited us a few hours drive further into the mountains of the east central area.

We weren’t sure what to expect – we knew that it had been established only in 1945 and had become the headquarters of  the Cheontae school of Korean Buddhism. We knew that the buildings there were quite fancy and that thousands of devotees were present at any one time.

As we pulled into the car park at the bottom of the steep valley where the complex is located, and saw the hundreds of vehicles, the gift shops and restaurants, the ongoing construction of a massive, ornate building next to a service station – I suddenly had a flash back to when I had visited the infamous pilgrimage site of Lourdes in southwest France many summers ago.

I think there is an underlying similarity to many Korean sites of interest – they generally seem to involve parking at the bottom of a great big hill then walking to the top. Now, Guinsa had a little bus that took us halfway but by the time we had arrived at the temple I certainly appreciated the extra oxygen in my blood from giving up smoking a few weeks before.

Jul 142010
 

Our first break in a week of driving. We wanted to stop in a city with more of an ‘Asian’ feel and Kazan came up with busy markets and glistening mosques – Tartarstan being the northern limits of Islamic culture.

We managed to drive all the way into the centre and park up in the shadow of its Kremlin that overlooks the Volga River – and here we found a German truck whose residents came over to say hello. We were wondering if they would join our convoy to the other side of the world but, no; this was the eastern-most point of their summer travels and they have to return home. It was strange to think that Kazan was only our first stop and we’d rushed past everything they were telling us about in European Russia.

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