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Jigsaw at the beach.

I can’t say I’ve ever met that many Dodge 50s outside of Europe. But that could just be because they were only really for sale in Britain and I hardly meet any British over-landers on anything more than two wheels (this year it’s French and Belgian). But having clocked over 200 000 km in Dodge 50s I still think they’re the best vehicle to take on a long, long trip – even if, at the moment, I’m covered in oil, grease and muck, with a layer of soot from the exhaust, finely sprinkled with grit and gravel, as I wrestle with a broken shock absorber. Even if the combined Central American mileage has rattled our suspension apart, I wouldn’t regret bringing a Dodge 50. Maybe the four-wheel drive version, next time, mind.

Speed bumps are, of course, the culprit. (And muggins here behind the wheel is the accessory). Jigsaw tried its best – those big old chunks of metal propping up the rear end had spent most of their life gently bouncing their way round the gently rolling hills of North England – they valiantly survived the challenge of Russia and Cascadia, only fatally complaining after thousands more miles of abuse, shouldering and shocking a full 3 and half tonnes over millions of fucking speed bumps.

There’s definitely a story to be had with speed bumps – a history to be told, to be sure, but also an examination of their place in modern human cultures.  Certainly a topic on our minds, anyway: There aren’t too many useful signs out here on the roads – the vibrators, redactors, topes and tumulos are eagerly read and processed and mentioned in conversation and then… whoa, 50 meters later, bump, bump, slowly over the lump of concrete known, funnily enough where I come from, as sleeping policemen. That’s if you’re lucky and you get a sign at all. Between Guadalajara and Mexico City, on the free roads, they pretty much decimated our average speed with their ubiquity. But they can have their individuality, too, and a singular speed bump becomes, if not famous, then notorious; fifty-odd km into Pakistan from the Iranian border there’s a bump usually hidden beneath the wind-blown sands of the Baluchi desert where train tracks cross the road. Many remember it, speeding through the evening, hoping to reach their secure destination by nightfall, when ‘BANG!’ – it’s like the shooting started already. The Dodge survived that one too.

 

 

 

 

 

Mazatlan Mariscos Dunia

Comfortably in the Tropics at last, we spend a couple of days in Mazatlan doing stuff – the town is pretty enough; long seafront boulevard with free parking, instead we chose to overnight on the busy, main road close to a Telcel shop whose wi-fi fuels an internet session (this time for financial reward, hopefully). Yes, we missed the famous Mazatlan sunset, the deepest of reds over rocky islands set in a bay but I guess you can google pictures of them – what you can’t google is the film of Dunia in the hot seat as we push-started Jigsaw on the busiest street on a Friday afternoon rush-hour… Flat battery, broken battery isolater, solar panel not connected? We couldn’t figure out why Jigsaw wouldn’t start but the next day all was fine… Hmm.

Mazatlan VetBut the biggest news for us was Vaga testing negative for heartworm. The story began a few years ago when any vet checking Vaga’s heart beat heard that there was a massive heart murmur and the likely cause would be heartworm. But we never had her tested – vets in the rich countries advised us to get her treated (which is very expensive, very dangerous for the dog and traumatizing for everyone), while our more sensible vet, Dr. Richter of the Czech Republic, always said that it was kinder to just leave it and hope for the best… We always followed his advice mainly because Vaga never showed any symptoms of having a dodgy heart – the medical recommendation being to avoid over-working her (ha – this dog sleeps for Jesus!).

So, anyway, heading into the Tropics means heading into heartworm country. The worm spreads from animal to animal via mosquito and requires warm temperatures at all stages of its life cycle. This high risk meant we were looking at prevention (chewy drug-laced morsels administered once a month) which means in turn you should test the animal for any existing heartworm. The point is you have to be careful not to kill the heartworm as there’s a high risk that the dead worm blocks a major artery.

At Mazatlan’s finest, poshest veterinary practice, we got Vaga’s blood tested and half an hour later got the all clear. She’s still got a dodgy heart but it’s the heart that she was born with 10 years ago, worm-free and persistently pumping…

 

Aug 142010
 

Stopped in the capital of the Buryatia Republic to make some repairs to Jigsaw’s front shock absorber mounts; to splash around in the torrential rain that seems to follow us whenever we visit a city; to go see the giant Lenin head for which Ulan Ude is “famous” and to try and figure out how this can be a capital of a republic within a republic…

One of the many illusions we had about Russia was that everyone would be offering us shots of vodka, toast after toast. It hasn’t been like that and, while we understand that we have avoided many centres of population and such on our mad rush eastwards, we were wondering what had happened to that aspect of Russian culture. Well, today, after five weeks, we got our first shots of vodka; stopping to ask directions to the local Ethnographic Museum and finding some office workers having an office party.

Jul 092010
 

Earthcircuit mapreadingWhat are the factors involved with ruts on an asphalt road? Weight of traffic, sure – what about the quality of tarmac or weather, use of studded tyres…? These ones on the high roads of Poland have got to be the worse I have ever seen. Jigsaw is sliding about so much that we’re down to 30mph and still the beads of sweat are dripping of my brow, hands clamped to the wheel, concentrating like I’m pulling a bus round the Himalayas – I’m in Poland! If it’s like this all the way then our schedule will have to be revised.

Iveco VanBoy in Polish RutNow part of this is due to the fact that I’m only driving Jigsaw for a few hundred klicks so far. She is a bit of duck – she’s tall, she’s wider than the wheels and she hasn’t got a roll/sway bar – and I’m going to have to get used to that.

Back at Earthcircuit HQ during the Stage1 construction phase, we were questioning the need for installing a roll bar. Jigsaw’s waddling qualities were well understood but I felt I was unlikely to be reaching high speeds much of the time and I was advised that on muddy, uneven terrain a roll bar would decrease traction. Truth is we ran out of time sourcing a suitable candidate from the scrap yards. Regretting that now.

Jul 032010
 

In Moravia, the eastern part of Czech Republic, where Radka is from, we hold a small event. It’s just days now before we leave but so many things remain to be done – we still have to buy some dollars, get some booster vaccinations, buy a jack and wheel-brace for the Iveco while the Jigsaw needs a hook for the tea towel…

May 282010
 

After more than four weeks spent on the farm, helping us turn an old wheelchair bus into Jigsaw – the truck of dreams – Nick is finally packing his tools away into the back of the car. Tomorrow, we drive him back to Croatia…

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